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Aview of the World by Shashi Tharoor

November 14, 1999

Sarajevo, City Of Hope.

Last month I found myself in Sarajevo on the day that UN Secretary-General Kofi Annan greeted the new-born baby hailed as the six billionth inhabitant of our planet. I had visited the city many times before, as a UN peace-keeping official during the traumatic years, 1991-96. The following is my reaction to this most recent visit. Its theme, I felt, could best be expressed in a prose poem.

 

I remember your city before you
were born.
Winter nineteen ninety-one, the
skies grey,
the air tense with rumours of war,
the whiff
of cordite floating in from Croatian
battlefronts. A brief ray of hope through the
clouds, the
Sarajevo Accords of New Year’s
nineteen ninety-two,
sealing (ah, foolish hope) yet another peace
between Serbs and Croats. That hope shattered
in the gunfire of that cruellest April,
scattering the habitues of the side-
walk cafes
to the bleeding barricades, the dull
thud
of artillery shells slamming into
your city
from the ring of hills surrounding
your parents.
Sarajevo, capital of Europe.
I remember your city before you
were born.
The siege. The plangent whine
of the sniper’s random bullet
penetrating the heart, the mind, of
Sarajevo.
Shell-shock. Nineteen ninety-two
and three, mobilisation,
the tramp of mud-caked boots
through the streets
of your Olympic city. January nine-
teen ninety-four,
the indelible screams of mothers at
the marketplace,
dismembered limbs filling their
shopping baskets
at Markale. Sarajevo, city of the ex-
clusion zone,
filling with refugees, spies, advisers,
smugglers,
United Nations peace-keepers
sent in to keep a peace no one
could make.
Sarajevo, capital of Europe.
I remember your city before you
were born.
The tunnel under
the airport, fleeing
women irradiated
by the searchlights
as they tried to
cross the runway,

blood irrigating
the vegetable gar-
dens of Dobrinje.
Sarajevo, a city
pockmarked by
hate, scarred
by the tracks of ar-
moured personnel
carriers,
divided by barriers of blood. I
remember
flying in over destroyed buildings,
putting on
my blue helmet and ill-fitting
Kevlar flak jacket,
stepping off the musty UNPRO-

FOR Yak-40 and walking
across the tarmac, an armoured fire
truck driving slowly
between us and the silent snipers.
Your refugee parents
knew no such security in Sarajevo.
Sarajevo, capital of Europe.
I remember your city before you
were born.
Nineteen ninety-five, the smoke
mushrooming
over
the ammunition
dump in Pale, the
air carrying
haunting echoes
of the massacres
at Srebrenica,
another blot on
the stained con-
science
of what we
naively called the
international
community. The
thumps of the
guns
of the Rapid Reaction Force, react-
ing at last
to the shelling of Sarajevo. Thick
clouds
of aircraft overhead, dropping de-
struction

on your besiegers. And with it,
hope.
Till the air cleared, and peace came
at last
to what would become your home.
Sarajevo, capital of Bosnia.


I remember your city before you
were born.
Nineteen ninety-six, those first ten-
tative steps of peace,
the buildings still shattered, people
grappling
with pain and disbelief as they
groped
to piece together the fragments of
their fractured lives.
And now, nineteen ninety-nine, at
the twilight
of a century marked twice by
tragedy in Sarajevo
I returned. As you grew large in
your mother’s womb,
my first glimpse from the air of re-
roofed homes,
buildings repainted in celebratory
shades
of shocking pink and yellow,
strolling couples,
children laughing as they ran
across a park,
the bustle of a city at last at peace
with itself. Sarajevo, for a day, capi-
tal of the world.
I will always remember the day you
were born.
A birth after so many deaths, the re-
assertion of the miracle of life triumphing
over the grave.
Flowers bloom in the cemetery. A
bouquet is thrust
into your mother’s hands, the tradi-
tional coin
of good fortune pressed into her
palm, a United Nations
medal of peace. We have made you
a symbol, a milestone.
A metaphor. But you are also a boy,
Baby Six Billion.
And you will grow up, I pray, in a
city
of healed wounds, bright lights,
joyous music,
chattering friends who will not
wear ethnic labels
on their belts. Let peace light
the flame on the candles
of your birthday cake, Baby Six Bil-
lion.
In Sarajevo, city of hope.


 

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